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Field Borders for Wildlife

Creating Edge

Many wildlife species are referred to as "edge species," frequently found where several of their particular needs are served side by side. At least one side is usually vegetation that will provide quick concealment if there is need to escape. It is not by chance that quail, rabbits or cardinals are found along fence rows, tree lines, or drainages. The absence of satisfactory edge, alone, can render an area unsuitable for them.

Fortunately, nearly every management activity performed - field borders, discing, burning, food strips, and similar actions - produces edge. The amount of edge created will depend on the extent and configuration of the activity. The greatest amount of edge per acre is derived from long, narrow configurations. For example, a square acre (209 feet by 209 feet) has 836 feet of edge. In contrast, a long, narrow rectangular acre, 20 feet wide and 2,187 feet long, has 4,392 feet of edge - over three-quarters of a mile! Clearly, practices of greatest benefit to edge species are those arranged in strip, rectangular or oblong shapes. Practices established in a meandering fashion are particularly useful. A winding food strip or hedgerow, or those that follow the contour of a hillside provide more edge than those established in a straight line.

Field Borders

Often synonymous with edge are field borders. Few practices are easier to implement or come closer to meeting edge species' needs. With field borders, edge, diversity and interspersion, all come together like the main ingredients of a three-bean salad. Even fallow and old fields should be given a border of some kind. A freshly disced strip along their perimeter will diversify the plant composition. With any type of border, it should be located where it will receive as much sun as possible. In fields surrounded by trees, the north side of the field is the best location to yield a fruit or seed crop.

Planted Borders

Two types of planted borders are herbaceous and shrub. An excellent border is created when these are combined, paralleling each other with the herbaceous planting closer to the opening and the shrubs next to the woods or pasture. Using both a herbaceous and shrub planting next to a tree line creates a stair-step effect, providing a "soft" edge between field and forest. Where native shrubs or small trees are already present, adding a herbaceous component is enough. A planted herbaceous border can be grasses, forbs or a mixture of the two. The selection of plant species should be based on overall need - supplemental food, nesting cover, bugging area or escape cover. Using a prolific reseeding annual (annual lespedeza, partridge pea) or a perennial species will extend the useful life of these areas (view a list of wildlife each species benefits and when each should be planted).

Shrub borders are usually established using seedlings (view a list of recommended shrubs). A mixture of species is better than a row a single species. Plant seedlings in firm soil. Unworked soil is fine if aggressive plants are not present. If the soil has been recently worked, allow it to settle before planting seedlings. Bicolor and VA70 lespedeza, shrub lespedezas of considerable value to quail for both cover and food, can be grown from seed or seedlings. Unlike annual lespedezas, bicolor seed must go into a prepared seedbed and be covered with soil. Control of competing vegetation around planted shrubs may be required for several years. Shrubs should be planted in late winter or early spring.

Natural Borders

Simply leaving an undisturbed area at least 30 feet wide along field edges can create a valuable border. This will result in a natural, fallow border if the field was cultivated within the past year or two. Discing or an application of herbicide is necessary if the area idled for a border is in dense sod. Otherwise the diverse plant community that is desired will not emerge. Natural borders can be allowed to grow into the old field or brushy stage, or maintained fallow by occasional discing (every 2 to 4 years).

Hedgerows

Hedgerows can be established in much the same fashion as field borders. Typically, hedgerows are used in large fields to provide escape cover, but can be customized to meet other needs. Hedgerows can be established by simply allowing a strip within a field to grow into whatever it will. Disc and/or herbicide any dense sod to encourage a diversity of new plants.

Specific plantings may be a more reliable and faster means of hedgerow establishment - and perhaps, aesthetically, more pleasing. Several staggered rows of red cedar, or Virginia or white pine with several additional rows of recommended shrubs on each side will become an effective hedgerow for escape in four or five years. If pines are used, they should be topped periodically to encourage low, dense growth. July is the best month for topping. Hedgerows can be made even more attractive by creating an herbaceous strip on one or both sides. Plant a bunch grass/legume mixture to encourage nesting, an annual food mixture, or simply disc a strip and leave it fallow for brood rearing cover. The choice will depend upon which habitat type is most needed. The total width of a hedgerow should be at least 30 feet.

Cutback Borders

Frequently the edges of crop fields become invaded by undesirable trees that grow to a size of no value to edge species and shade out plants of benefit. Also, roots and branches of large trees that extend into a crop field sharply reduce production along its edges. In these situations, cutting, or otherwise removing most trees will provide several benefits. First, by allowing sunlight to reach the ground, vegetation more beneficial to quail will quickly emerge. Second, crop yields near the field edge will improve. And perhaps most appealing, cropland acreage will not be reduced.

As the term implies, cutback borders are usually created by felling the trees with a chainsaw. Other methods include, killing selected trees with a basal application of herbicide or using a bulldozer or other means to push the trees away from the field edge. When sawed, hardwoods will quickly sprout at the stump and form a brush border in one or two growing seasons. Some trees can be hinge-cut, felled while leaving the tree partially attached to the stump. These produce a living brush pile that will remain for years. Cedars are particularly suited to this practice. Cutback borders should be at least 30 feet deep and extend along as much of the field edge as feasible. Cut back a portion of a field’s edge each year to provide various stages of regrowth. When cutting, occasionally leave trees or shrubs of special benefit. Dogwood and wild plum are examples.